Saturday, February 15, 2020

Saturday, February 15, 2020

South Island I

Posted by Hippobean at 11:59 PM
South Island 2-10/15

Cook Strait 2-10

We missed our 9AM interisland ferry because the shuttle company never got our reservations. When we finally made it to the harbour, the ferry was still there but they didnt let us board. The 1PM departure was full so we changed our reservations to 4PM, the last one of the day, which meant we wouldnt get to Nelson till after dark. Disappointed as I was looking forward to spending some time exploring Picton and arriving at the hotel early for a walk on the beach. Since it wasnt our fault, Explore paid for a ferry to visit to the Somes Island. I didnt care for it but since I didnt want to wander in Wellington again and the idea of a ferry in the wellington harbour sounded good, I went for it. The ferry ride was short but quite refreshing since the day was warm and sunny. Once on the island, we had to go through bio security again to make sure we didnt introduce any animals or insects to the island, and had to clean our shoes. We walked up the hill, and admired the island fauna and flora along the way. Not too exciting for me but I just came for the ferry ride. Back at Wellington, no food truck today, and had to settle for a pappardelle with mushroom at the Italian place around the corner from the West Plaza hotel. Saved half for dinner on the interisland ferry.

We had good views during the interisland voyage as I've found some seats at the bow with floor to ceiling window and I've waved everyone over. Passing through the cook strait was an exhilirating experience. a bit rocky. then it's open calm sea. i love ferries and this one was quite big with multiple decks, different compartments with comfy sofas, a cafeteria with acceptable menu, a gift shop and open decks in front and on the sides. Asked why we didnt just take our bus in the ferry. Was told because it costs too much. It's cheaper if we leave the bus on the north island and pick up another on the south island. an online search resulted in a price of less than 300nzd for our bus size. 300nzd didnt sound too extravagant to me to avoid the hassle of getting us shuttles/taxis to the harbour and then getting a new bus on the south island. The ferry ride was pretty comfortable and I went out to the open deck in front from time to time for the view and fresh air. Ate my left over pappardelle on the boat. 4PM ferry actually turned out pretty nice because as we approached the south island, the hills on the Queen Charlotte Sound were spectacular in the late afternoon sun. as we entered the Marlborough Sound, dusk made all the hills surreal and the picton habour so romantic. The interisland journey was just a little over 3 hours.

Cook Strait:
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Too bad we didnt have time to really see picton. We drove around a bit to see the town and then straight to nelson, along the Grove Arm of the Queen Charlotte Sound, making several stops to photograph the crepuscular sunlights on shakespeare bay. gorgeous! the beachcomber was a lousy motel away from the center of Nelson and not even on the beach. I was looking forward to the harbourside hotel and was again sourly disappointed.

Picton:
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Tasman Bay 2-11

Gliding effortlessly through the pristine waters of the tasman bay in the Abel Tasman national park aboard a catamaran, surrounded by secluded coves, golden beaches, islands and lush native forest was our first morning on the south island. I've never been sailing on a catamaran before. Sat on the right bow with water lapping under the tramp, wind and sun on my face. glorious! Since the tide was high, the captain took us into a small cove where normally it would be covered in sand and one could walk from shore to shore. a few people were sunbathing on the shores. nice treat! we've set sailed from the kaiteriteri beach and arrived mid day at the anchorage bay and had our packed lunch of sandwiches, apple, muffins and chocolate. afterwards we took the coastal trail and hiked to Marahau. The 4 hours 17.5km walk initially was up hill and then through dense forest with peeks of the bay below. I've enjoyed the long walk, a total contrast to the morning lazying around on the catamaran. a cold ginger beer at the end of the hike in the Park cafe was refreshing and we sat around chatting waiting for Herbie to bring our bus. Dinner that night was at the Anchor in the Nelson harbour with good views of the yachts and boats, and I had the fisherman platter with steamed mussels, prawns, fried calamary, scallops and white fish with french fries. it wasnt super delicious but it was good.

Tasman Bay:
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hokitika 2-12

Looking forward to a nice hotel by the beach at Hokitika. couldnt wait to get out of the lousy motel in nelson. The drive down the Great Coast road Hwy 6 was along the rugged west coast and it resembled the CA coast with dramatic rock formations and great tasman sea views. lunch was at WestPort, a nice town with plenty of restaurants, cafes and shops. I had a chicken and leaks pie. Had wanted a beef and mushroom but someone ahead of me took the last one. then i found an icy cream parlor and we all had our desserts there. First site seeing stop was at Tauranga bay at Cape Fowlwind to see the fur seals. Not many and they were pretty far. Herbie's wife Maria braved a swim in the beach as the waters didnt look too threatening. Usually the waves were ferocious. next we stopped to see the pancake rocks at Punakaiki. the pancake rocks are heavily eroded limestone created by lime-rich layers of marine creatures deposited on the seabed, then overlaid by weaker layers of plant sediments and soft mud and clay, thus creating the stack of pancakes formation. This area also had several blowholes. It was quite amazing. the rocket scientits geologist would have a total field day here.

Cape Fowlwind:
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Punakaiki (pancake rocks):

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We arrived at our beach front hotel in hokitika in late afternoon. The 'Sunset Point' looked dumpy and dirty so I didnt stop there. our hotel rooms face the beach and once you open the sliding door, you need only to cross the road and jump on the beach. Although the sunset was magnificent, the beach was littered with rocks and stones. but it did have some good beach arts like teepees. Since there was time before dinner, I did laundry using the self-served laundry facility at the hotel. 2 gold coins (2nzd) for each load of washing and drier. it didnt take too long. loved the nz hotels. all have self served laundry facilities. dinner was at the hotel restaurant with grand views of the beach and the sunset. I had the lamb shank but again it was just so so. a bit on the dry side. so far the food wasnt too spectacularly tasty in NZ. In most of my meals in my trips, i usually had a few that were absolutely delicious. Not on this one. The evening was marvelous. pitch black and absolutely quiet. The room bathroom had a fantastic shower, the best bathroom on this trip. littleSnowie sat in front of the sliding door to look out to the beach. Euphorius! really enjoyed this hotel. bad it was for only 1 night.

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Fox Glacier 2-13

to glacier land today. Drive was along native bush of Rimu (red pine) and kahikatea (white pines). Lunched steak and mushroom pie at Franz Josef Glacier town, another 1 road village with restaurants and shops. but the surrounding hills, the southern Alps, gave the town an alpine feel. Then a glacier valley walk to the Franz Josef Glacier terminal face over the moraine, once where the glacier floated down, now receded so much that one could only view the glacier from a distance. Sad due to global warming, but nonetheless a short and invigorating walk. A couple of small waterfalls, lots of broken glacial rocks that ended at a viewing point. the actual glacier still looked a far. After that, we drove to Fox Glacier, another 1 street town filled with motels and adventure shops where one could book helitours to see the glaciers. The Heartland Hotel had a grand victorian façade but it's really just another motel. The rooms were in 2 rows of 1 story buildings behind the main hotel. But clean, simple and adequate. dinner was at the ReflectionZ with good views of the Matheson lake. surrounding hills were illuminated by bans of the sunset rays. gorgeous! I had the catch of the day which again was eatable but not great.

Franz Joseph Glacier:
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Fox Glacier:
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Wanaka Friday- 2-13-14

Woke up and went outside and was stunned by the elegant beauty of the glacial southern alps. The morning sunrays formed golden bands on the top of the hills and the air was crisp, fresh and cool. It was so refreshingly stunning, I couldnt take enough photos. Yesterday the sky was gloomy. This morning the sky was clear and blue. We saw picture perfect views of Mount Cook and Mount Tasman. The sky, Aoraki/Mtn Cook, Mtn Tasman and the lake shore were perfectly reflected on the calm waters of Lake Matheson, exactly like a mirror. We got so lucky the weather had completely turned around so we could admire this. We've stopped at the South Westland salmon farm and I got a salmon croissant for lunch. Fox Glacier had receded so much that there's now a 2 hour walk to see it and again only from afar. So we didnt do it. meandering through the Aspiring National park, we've made many stops to photograph the majestic hills and crystal blue lakes. I was riding shotgun this time and glad I chose today to do it as the drive was one of the most spectacular in the trip. The lakes show pristine clear blue water and the mountains covered with snow crystal clear. Passing along the Makaroa river and the twin lakes, the hawae and the wanaka, was mesmerizing. made it to wanaka in late afternoon and the town was ready for the triathlon which started on the following day. The Wanaka hotel is lake facing. My 2nd story room has a balcony facing the lake. however, there's no ac and the west facing room was stuffy and hot even with the fan blowing. SmallSnowie sat on the balcony the whole time we were in Wanaka. For dinner, I've walked across the main road and got a pad seewu with shrimps. at night when the weather finally cooled down, I sat on the balcony with my stuffy enjoying the evening view of the town and the lake and a glass of icy coke.

The following morning, while the group went jetboating, I've walked around lake wanaka. I've missed the swimming competition, and now the participants are doing the bike riding and running portions. Was told to get off the road to avoid being hit by the competitors or disrupting their rhythm. The view of the mountains on wanaka beach were breathtaking. The town was vibrant with restaurants, cafes and bars, offering every type of food and refreshments. Shops lined the streets. Really enjoyed this town. For dinner, i got a lamb wrap, ate half and saved half for tomorrow. Another evening walk on the beach with littleSnowie, then we sat on the hotel room balcony for another evening of mountains and lake gazing. With a glass of icy coke of course. Stuffy was very happy.

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